裁(cai)剪(jian)就是將衣料分割成各(ge)種形態衣片的工藝。有批量(liang)裁(cai)剪(jian)(又(you)稱(cheng)工業裁(cai)剪(jian))和單件(jian)裁(cai)剪(jian)之(zhi)分。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)照服(fu)裝(zhuang)號(hao)(hao)型(xing)系(xi)列制(zhi)作樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)進行多疊層(ceng)(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪。是服(fu)裝(zhuang)工(gong)業生(sheng)產(chan)中的(de)(de)(de)主要裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪形(xing)(xing)式(shi)。主要步驟為：①材料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)檢(jian)(jian)驗。主要是對(dui)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)伸縮率(lv)、色(se)牢度(du)、耐熱度(du)的(de)(de)(de)理(li)化檢(jian)(jian)驗，檢(jian)(jian)查疵點，測(ce)幅(fu)寬，整理(li)緯斜以(yi)及熱預縮等(deng)。②制(zhi)定規(gui)格(ge)和樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)。根據服(fu)裝(zhuang)款式(shi)、規(gui)格(ge)、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)性能(neng)和縫制(zhi)工(gong)藝要求，用(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙板(ban)(ban)(ban)制(zhi)成(cheng)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)，并制(zhi)定規(gui)格(ge)搭配等(deng)。③排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)各(ge)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)排列在(zai)(zai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)上(shang)或與(yu)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)幅(fu)寬相同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)紙上(shang)，以(yi)求最(zui)大(da)限度(du)地提高衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)率(lv)。④劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)。按(an)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)確定的(de)(de)(de)格(ge)式(shi)，依樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)劃(hua)(hua)出(chu)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)輪廓和記(ji)號(hao)(hao)。批量大(da)的(de)(de)(de)產(chan)品通(tong)常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)漏花樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)(將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)線(xian)路鉆成(cheng)等(deng)距(ju)連續針(zhen)孔的(de)(de)(de)樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban))，以(yi)刷樣(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)粉末刷入(ru)孔內使(shi)之(zhi)漏下顯形(xing)(xing))取代劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)。20世紀60年代出(chu)現(xian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)于服(fu)裝(zhuang)設計的(de)(de)(de)計算(suan)機輔助設計系(xi)統(tong)(CAD)，按(an)實樣(yang)或比(bi)例繪出(chu)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)圖的(de)(de)(de)新技術。⑤鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。按(an)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)所需長度(du)、幅(fu)寬、數量，將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)多層(ceng)(ceng)疊鋪(pu)(pu)在(zai)(zai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪臺上(shang)。50年代除(chu)手(shou)工(gong)鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)外(wai)，采用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)推車(che)或往返式(shi)電(dian)動鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機操作。80年代應用(yong)(yong)(yong)微電(dian)腦控制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)自(zi)動鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機，能(neng)自(zi)動進行正、反(fan)面交叉(cha)或單(dan)面鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)，自(zi)動理(li)邊、記(ji)數等(deng)。⑥開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)線(xian)路將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)成(cheng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)。通(tong)常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)立式(shi)電(dian)剪刀(見日用(yong)(yong)(yong)五金)，最(zui)高開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)可達160mm，薄型(xing)織物(wu)約(yue)200層(ceng)(ceng)。此外(wai)還有(you)各(ge)種輔助裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪設備，如帶式(shi)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(又稱環形(xing)(xing)刀裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪機)、沖裁(cai)(cai)(cai)機等(deng)。60年代末出(chu)現(xian)使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電(dian)腦控制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)自(zi)動裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪機(CAM)。⑦分包。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)按(an)不同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)規(gui)格(ge)、顏(yan)色(se)歸類，分成(cheng)若干包。⑧編(bian)號(hao)(hao)。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)一(yi)件(jian)(jian)(包)服(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)各(ge)組(zu)合衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)編(bian)成(cheng)同(tong)一(yi)個順序(xu)號(hao)(hao)。有(you)以(yi)包編(bian)號(hao)(hao)或以(yi)件(jian)(jian)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)兩種。襯衫、睡(shui)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)等(deng)產(chan)品通(tong)常(chang)以(yi)一(yi)匹同(tong)色(se)原(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)按(an)序(xu)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)，對(dui)易產(chan)生(sheng)色(se)差(cha)的(de)(de)(de)采取分層(ceng)(ceng)以(yi)件(jian)(jian)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)自(zi)動號(hao)(hao)碼(ma)機打印。⑨扎包。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)產(chan)品的(de)(de)(de)組(zu)合裁(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)(pian)按(an)規(gui)定的(de)(de)(de)搭配要求包扎在(zai)(zai)一(yi)起，并在(zai)(zai)包外(wai)注明標號(hao)(hao)，掛上(shang)標簽。在(zai)(zai)服(fu)裝(zhuang)加工(gong)廠給客戶(hu)做大(da)貨時就會(hui)用(yong)(yong)(yong)批量裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪的(de)(de)(de)方法進行。

　　單件裁剪

　　對合體(ti)(ti)(ti)要求(qiu)較高(gao)或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)特(te)殊(shu)體(ti)(ti)(ti)型(xing)的(de)(de)定(ding)制(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)加工、樣品等(deng)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。根(gen)據(ju)(ju)穿著對象的(de)(de)體(ti)(ti)(ti)型(xing)或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)樣品測(ce)(ce)取各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)數據(ju)(ju)。上(shang)(shang)衣主(zhu)要測(ce)(ce)量部(bu)位(wei)有(you)衣長(chang)、胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)、肩(jian)寬、袖長(chang)、領(ling)圍(wei)(wei)。緊身式(shi)女(nv)裝(zhuang)還(huan)需增測(ce)(ce)腰圍(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)(wei)、乳高(gao)、乳距、前(qian)后(hou)(hou)腰節長(chang)度(du)等(deng)。褲的(de)(de)主(zhu)要測(ce)(ce)量部(bu)位(wei)有(you)褲長(chang)、腰圍(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)(wei)、上(shang)(shang)襠(dang)長(chang)。單件裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)(de)方法(fa)主(zhu)要有(you) 5種(zhong)(zhong)。①比例法(fa)：即(ji)胸(xiong)度(du)法(fa)或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)臀(tun)(tun)度(du)法(fa)。上(shang)(shang)衣以人體(ti)(ti)(ti)胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)為(wei)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)，下裝(zhuang)以人體(ti)(ti)(ti)臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)(wei)為(wei)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)，對其他(ta)部(bu)位(wei)尺(chi)寸(cun)(cun)根(gen)據(ju)(ju)胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)(wei)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)比例分配。②原(yuan)型(xing)法(fa)：又(you)稱基(ji)(ji)型(xing)法(fa)。依測(ce)(ce)量人體(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)尺(chi)寸(cun)(cun)為(wei)基(ji)(ji)準，繪制(zhi)模(mo)具式(shi)衣片原(yuan)型(xing)，然后(hou)(hou)在(zai)原(yuan)型(xing)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)上(shang)(shang)按款式(shi)特(te)點作(zuo)局部(bu)調整(zheng)，再(zai)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。③定(ding)寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)：用文字或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)圖(tu)形將(jiang)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位(wei)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)所需數據(ju)(ju)全部(bu)標(biao)出，然后(hou)(hou)按標(biao)出的(de)(de)尺(chi)寸(cun)(cun)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。④短寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)：對人體(ti)(ti)(ti)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位(wei)盡可(ke)能進(jin)(jin)行(xing)測(ce)(ce)量，然后(hou)(hou)按取得的(de)(de)數據(ju)(ju)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。⑤立體(ti)(ti)(ti)法(fa)：在(zai)人體(ti)(ti)(ti)模(mo)型(xing)或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)人體(ti)(ti)(ti)上(shang)(shang)直接塑造服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)款式(shi)，并做(zuo)好各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)標(biao)記，是將(jiang)設計(ji)造型(xing)和裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)融(rong)為(wei)一(yi)體(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)方法(fa)。縫制(zhi)前(qian)還(huan)需復原(yuan)為(wei)平面(mian)，作(zuo)必要的(de)(de)修正或(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)復制(zhi)成樣板(ban)。常用于裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)某些(xie)立體(ti)(ti)(ti)感強(qiang)，造型(xing)難度(du)高(gao)，衣料(liao)柔軟，具懸(xuan)垂特(te)性的(de)(de)女(nv)式(shi)時裝(zhuang)。服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)加工廠給客戶打版時就會用單件裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)(de)方法(fa)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)。