服(fu)裝廠加工(gong)服(fu)裝時，對(dui)服(fu)裝部(bu)件或成衣作熱(re)處(chu)理(li)的工(gong)藝(yi)就是熨(yun)燙(tang)。

　　作用

　　熨燙的作用有：①平整(zheng)，消除織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)褶(zhe)縐。②整(zheng)緯(wei)，矯正(zheng)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)染(ran)整(zheng)工藝(yi)中(zhong)形成的緯(wei)向絲綹歪斜，使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)復(fu)原，以利裁剪、縫制(zhi)。③預伸縮(suo)，防止衣片(pian)在(zai)縫制(zhi)中(zhong)因受熱(re)而產生伸縮(suo)現象。④變(bian)(bian)形，利用織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)可塑性，將織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)局(ju)部變(bian)(bian)形，促使(shi)衣片(pian)形態由(you)直(zhi)變(bian)(bian)弧或(huo)由(you)弧變(bian)(bian)直(zhi)，以便加工出(chu)合(he)體的成衣。⑤整(zheng)形，對成衣外(wai)形進行修改整(zheng)理，彌補(bu)工藝(yi)操作中(zhong)的不足(zu)，使(shi)外(wai)觀平挺、貼服、不外(wai)翹。

　　條件

　　熨燙(tang)需具備(bei)溫度(du)(du)、濕度(du)(du)、壓力三方面的條件。其中(zhong)(zhong)溫度(du)(du)是關鍵。按各(ge)類(lei)織物的性能特點，使外加的輸熱度(du)(du)與(yu)織物固(gu)有的耐熱度(du)(du)要相適應。溫度(du)(du)過高(gao)會損壞(huai)織物，過低則熨燙(tang)無(wu)效。通常掌(zhang)握的熨燙(tang)溫度(du)(du)：合成(cheng)纖維90～160℃(其中(zhong)(zhong)錦綸90℃左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you))，絲類(lei)120℃左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)，羊毛類(lei)160℃左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)(加濕布200℃左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you))，棉(mian)布類(lei)180℃左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)，麻類(lei)190℃左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)。

　　熨燙壓力的大小和(he)時間(jian)(jian)長(chang)短，需(xu)根據衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)厚薄(bo)和(he)原料(liao)固有性能而(er)(er)定。一般薄(bo)型(xing)質(zhi)松的衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)所需(xu)壓力較小，熨燙時間(jian)(jian)也短，厚型(xing)質(zhi)密衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)反之(zhi)。織物不(bu)能直接放在案(an)面上熨燙，需(xu)墊薄(bo)毯(tan)，毛料(liao)產品(pin)還需(xu)上蓋濕布，以保持衣(yi)(yi)服整潔而(er)(er)不(bu)產生(sheng)反射光。

　　方法

　　熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)方(fang)法主要有：①推(tui)(tui)(tui)、歸、拔(ba)。是加工(gong)毛料服裝的(de)傳統熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)技法，能(neng)使(shi)(shi)(shi)平(ping)面(mian)狀衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)產(chan)生立體(ti)造型，以及服裝貼體(ti)平(ping)整的(de)效(xiao)果(guo)。推(tui)(tui)(tui)與歸交互(hu)進行。推(tui)(tui)(tui)，是在衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)的(de)胸、背、臀等(deng)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)進行推(tui)(tui)(tui)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)(shi)(shi)織(zhi)物隆起(qi);歸，是根據人體(ti)凸起(qi)的(de)邊(bian)(bian)緣(yuan)(yuan)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)，將(jiang)衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)相應(ying)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)的(de)織(zhi)物進行聚(ju)集歸縮熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)(shi)(shi)邊(bian)(bian)緣(yuan)(yuan)長度(du)縮短，使(shi)(shi)(shi)凸起(qi)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)效(xiao)果(guo)更顯著。拔(ba)，是對衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)需要延展的(de)部(bu)(bu)(bu)分，將(jiang)織(zhi)物拔(ba)開(伸長)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，通常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)的(de)腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)、袖肘、領(ling)腳和(he)褲片(pian)(pian)(pian)中襠(膝(xi)位(wei))等(deng)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)。②磨(mo)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力(li)多(duo)次往返(fan)重復熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)胸襯和(he)胸顙頂端燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)服。③壓(ya)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力(li)壓(ya)住熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗進行熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)(shi)(shi)織(zhi)物定(ding)型并(bing)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)薄。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)衣(yi)襟(jin)、衣(yi)角等(deng)。④烘(hong)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗懸空不(bu)直(zhi)接(jie)接(jie)觸織(zhi)物，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)傳溫方(fang)式進行熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)服裝的(de)領(ling)、駁領(ling)、下擺等(deng)有角部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)，使(shi)(shi)(shi)之(zhi)不(bu)外(wai)翹(qiao)。⑤軋(ya)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。運用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗外(wai)側，沿縫(feng)緝的(de)圓弧(hu)，借(jie)助鐵凳(deng)(燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)肩部(bu)(bu)(bu)、袖窿的(de)凳(deng)狀工(gong)具)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)上衣(yi)的(de)袖窿弧(hu)、西(xi)褲的(de)襠弧(hu)等(deng)。⑥吸(xi)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。在織(zhi)物上覆蓋(gai)濕布，高溫快速輕浮熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)厚呢絨面(mian)的(de)毛茸(rong)，以及消除水花(hua)、亮(liang)光(guang)等(deng)。⑦分燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。運用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗尖部(bu)(bu)(bu)將(jiang)疊合(he)的(de)緝縫(feng)分開熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑧扣燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。將(jiang)縫(feng)口(kou)或褶邊(bian)(bian)折轉(zhuan)扣住熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)貼袋縫(feng)口(kou)或各類褶邊(bian)(bian)等(deng)。⑨坐燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗前側將(jiang)緝縫(feng)一邊(bian)(bian)定(ding)向燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)倒。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)夾里褶縫(feng)口(kou)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑩翻燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。部(bu)(bu)(bu)件經(jing)反面(mian)縫(feng)緝后翻出于(yu)(yu)(yu)正面(mian)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)袋蓋(gai)、衣(yi)領(ling)、門(men)襟(jin)、里襟(jin)等(deng)部(bu)(bu)(bu)件。粘(zhan)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。刮漿熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)式粘(zhan)合(he)襯(見(jian)服裝材料)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，起(qi)粘(zhan)合(he)作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。

　　工具

　　熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)是(shi)服裝熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)的主要工(gong)(gong)(gong)具。中國(guo)漢(han)代(dai)(dai)已(yi)有(you)熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)，又稱(cheng)“火斗(dou)(dou)”，為裝炭(tan)(tan)火的勺(shao)形(xing)物。近(jin)代(dai)(dai)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)是(shi)烙鐵和(he)(he)以(yi)炭(tan)(tan)為熱源利用(yong)(yong)(yong)風箱催溫的炭(tan)(tan)熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)(俗稱(cheng)炭(tan)(tan)火輪(lun))。20世紀(ji)50年代(dai)(dai)起較普(pu)遍使用(yong)(yong)(yong)電熨(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)。50年代(dai)(dai)后期，中國(guo)第一代(dai)(dai)“三(san)領(ling)機(ji)(ji)”研(yan)制成(cheng)功，用(yong)(yong)(yong)于襯(chen)衫領(ling)的粘合和(he)(he)弧定型;英國(guo)發(fa)明以(yi)熱壓(ya)方式粘合可(ke)熔性襯(chen)布(bu)的專用(yong)(yong)(yong)粘合機(ji)(ji)。粘合機(ji)(ji)已(yi)發(fa)展成(cheng)能控(kong)時(shi)、控(kong)壓(ya)、控(kong)溫的滾壓(ya)和(he)(he)平壓(ya)式兩種(zhong)，成(cheng)為與縫制新(xin)(xin)(xin)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝配套(tao)的新(xin)(xin)(xin)型熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)工(gong)(gong)(gong)具。對半成(cheng)品(pin)和(he)(he)成(cheng)品(pin)的熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，已(yi)應用(yong)(yong)(yong)模壓(ya)、充氣、多工(gong)(gong)(gong)位回轉等(deng)蒸(zheng)汽(qi)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)機(ji)(ji)和(he)(he)衣(yi)片歸(gui)拔(ba)機(ji)(ji)。一套(tao)西服蒸(zheng)汽(qi)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)設備可(ke)完成(cheng)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)衣(yi)袖、衣(yi)身、立(li)體整形(xing)等(deng)12種(zhong)最終熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)和(he)(he)分縫、歸(gui)拔(ba)等(deng)18種(zhong)中間熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使產品(pin)干燥、燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)跡定型、無亮光(guang)。現代(dai)(dai)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)新(xin)(xin)(xin)設備、新(xin)(xin)(xin)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝，極大(da)地提高了產品(pin)的熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)質量(liang)。

　　服裝廠在制成一件衣服，熨燙整理衣服也是很(hen)重要的，一件經(jing)過熨燙和未經(jing)過處理的，差別是很(hen)大的。